How many carrots for a tomato? More on food prices from Zhu Wen
In my last post on pig production and inflation I argued that though pork prices do have a big effect on China’s consumer price index, the underlying cause of inflation is not too few pigs but rather too much money. But that does not mean that food prices are not important.
I think this extract from a story called ‘Pounds, Ounces, Meat’ by Zhu Wen, is an interesting illustration of the importance of food prices in Chinese life. I read the story in translation and I believe the original was written in the mid 1990s, but having visited a few Chinese vegetable markets, I can attest that Zhu’s account still rings true today.
The story takes place in a vegetable market. An old lady whose newly purchased tomato has just been crushed by another shopper is demanding compensation:
‘The old lady said she had bought 6 tomatoes, costing 2.5 yuan altogether, making each tomato 0.41666 yuan on average. Rounding it up, he owed her 0.42 yuan. After a brief stunned pause, the man demanded to see the other 5. The old lady brought over the basket from the ground and, one by one, rummaged out the tomatoes from in amongst the potatoes, cauliflower, asparagus, lettuce, ginger, onions, long chillies, and pickled garlic. I disagree, the man pronounced after thorough investigation, these 5 are all quite big, but the one I squashed was obviously much smaller.
The old lady glared upon her adversary, suddenly realizing he was not yet a spent force. Well, what do you say? The man pulled out from his bicycle trailer a carrot and laid it in front of the old lady: Look, I bought 4 carrots, 625 grams altogether. At 2.4 yuan a kilo, they cost me 1.5 yuan which makes each carrot 0.375 yuan on average, but because this one is the thickest and the longest, it’s bound to be worth more than 0.42 yuan. Take this and we are even.
The old lady closed her eyes a while, out of habit, then grabbed the hostage carrot and tucked it into her own basket. But take it from me, she added as an afterword, though the current official price for carrots is 2.4 yuan, you can sometimes get them down to 2.3. As I’m running late and I’ve got to get home to cook for my children, I’ll leave it here for today.’
Zhu’s underlying point is that reform era China is obsessed with money and material things. In one of his other short stories, entitled ‘I love dollars’, a young man bargains his father out of a good time by refusing to pay the going rate for a prostitute. But even though Zhu is using the old woman’s haggling to illustrate a wider point, a visit to any food market in Beijing would be enough to indicate that his fictional account is not too far from reality.
Food makes up around a third of the average Chinese person’s consumption basket, and with incomes low, even small changes in food prices can mean the difference between keeping your head above water, or going under.